Service

SERVICE

Paul Dean

Cabin fever

I have a 1983 Suzuki GS1100GL with an annoying problem: The electrical system apparently is running on the battery alone. The battery was bought new this past spring, and it will accept and hold a charge. About three years ago, this same problem occurred, and a service technician replaced the voltage regulator. I have every confidence in that technician, but I’d like to tackle this problem myself. The winters in the Midwest leave motorcycle enthusiasts little to do once we’ve removed the snow from the driveway. I would appreciate any help you can offer, including the kinds of tools needed to effect repairs. Paul Anderson Anderson, Indiana

Even though I suspect we both already know where your Suzuki s problem lies, I decided Ed better reply to your inquiry anyway; it ’s not every day that I get a letter from someone who has an entire town named after him.

Based on the bike’s history, logic suggests that the battery is not being charged because the voltage regulator has failed again. There are a few diagnostic tests you could perform to determine whether the problem is with the regulator or the alternator. Unfortunately, while the tests themselves are simple, the explanation of how to do them and what equipment to use is too complex to explain here. So, rather than trying to detail all the necessary procedures and equipment, allow me to offer this suggestion—the same one I would make to anyone who ’s experiencing bike problems they hope to resolve on their own: Buy a shop manual. Either order the factory version through your dealer, or track down one of the manuals published by other companies. The information in these manuals is not guaranteed to solve your bike ’s problems, but the photos and illustrations alone often are enlightening enough to point you in the right direction.

Although I would like everyone to believe that all of the answers I supply in Service come right off the top of my head, that’s not the case. A great deal of that information, particularly things such as specifications, wear tolerances and electrical values, is taken directly from factory shop manuals. Anyone could have that same information at their fingertips if they had the appropriate manual. I 'm certainly not discouraging anyone from writing to Service; I'm simply interested in helping readers get their bikes back on the road as soon as possible.

Mention the tension

I own a 1987 Honda CBR1000F that has a most annoying problem. I twice have replaced the camchain tensioner due to an excessive amount of chain rattle, first at 13,400 miles and again at 27,300 miles. After the first replacement, the noise ceased for about 10,000 miles and then returned. After the second replacement, the noise returned immediately. Neither time was the camchain replaced. What’s the problem, and am I damaging the motor by continuing to ride the bike? Neal Savage Vestal, New York

Most likely, the camchain is completely worn out. The tensioner-even a brand-new one-can compensate only for a limited amount of chain slack; once the chain gets stretched past that point, the tensioner cannot move far enough to keep the chain taut.

Yes, you can damage the engine by riding the bike, especially if the camchain breaks altogether; that could result in some fairly serious valve and piston damage. And a worn camchain also significantly retards cam timing. So, if you replace the chain, not only will the noise go away, the engine performance will improve, as well.