Touring Big Sur

Touring Big Sur

DAN HUNT

BIG SUR highway is THE road for motorcycle grand touring. It twists, loops, rises, falls and esses high above the sea for about 80 fantastic miles. Each short straight and driving corner is a unique challenge for the rider who likes things fast enough to keep his blood running hot.

The bonus to this comes up soon and unexpectedly — a network of hundreds of miles of dirt roads, most of them open to bike riders and some that have even been set aside specially for trailing buffs.

This is what California's Big Sur country is all about. And you can add to it free camping spots (complete with water and facilities) every few miles, all sorts of hunting (deer, wild pig, pigeon, etc.), reasonable prices for indoor lodging, dining and entertainment within easy reach, wild looking hill country, and lots of hip people (whom you can avoid if you're looking for privacy).

"Sur" means "south" or "south wind" in Spanish, which is appropriate, we suppose, for the area lies south of the Monterey Peninsula and is plenty big. You get there on Highway 1 by way of Monterey on the north or San Luis Obispo on the south.

Big Sur is actually the name of a little hermitage town on Highway 1 halfway along the mountainous 80 miles. The regulars expand the name to include the whole stretch.

Motorcycle "pay dirt" is about 20 miles south of Big Sur proper or 10 miles north of Plasset Creek Campground, depending on which way you're traveling. It is called Nacimiento Road and it dumps itself rather unceremoniously onto the coast route. But it does have a sign. Whatever you do, remember the name.

Hate cars? There are few turistas who care to try Nacamiento. It's the bike ride of a lifetime, for it thrusts upward for seven miles, alternately through dark, dripping forests and along precipitous gorges. It's a fast ride, if you're on something with suds. The dirt surface is beautifully kept up and has a gritty cushion the likes of which would drive a Prado Park hotshoe insane with delight.

Prudence is the only speedlimit. But don't slide blind curves. Tangle with something bigger going the other way and you'll drop so far they'll never hear the plop.

Once you arrive at Nacimiento Summit, you'll be breathing a bit heavier. This is no Pikes Peak, but it is high enough to cause a weather change which may, if you're camping out, work to your advantage. The Big Sur coastline, unfortunately, is besieged by giant banks of fog all year round. The area around Nacamiento Summit is generally 10 to 15 degrees warmer than the coast, gets no fog, and there are three campsites within one mile's reach, one of which sits by a brook that really babbles.

The road forks in three directions at the summit. A right turn goes toward Pacific Valley and Plasset Ridge, high above the coast road. A left carries you along miles of trail towards turnoffs for several other trails which in turn break off into even more trails. You could get lost for days or even run out of gas, which is worse than starving to death, in my book.

If you go straight, you arrive at, in this order: two campsites, a stretch of curving go-fast road, then Hunter Liggett military camp, which offers crunchy, graded dirt in a series of fast sweepers and straights for about 10 miles. Keep your front wheel light with power on the latter. Then comes the town of Jolon (so what?) and a genuine restored mission (they bore me) and King City on Highway 101 (if you're planning to leave).

A word about Hunter Liggett camp: the rolling meadow may beckon you and your roto-rooter. However, there are signs all over warning about the fast roving tanks and about the dud shells left over from frequent artillery practice. Let the cows enjoy the meadow; they can't read.

So much for the dirt. There's always tomorrow and when you get back to Highway 1, head north. You'll pass several other unmarked dirt sideroads which offer more action. If bikes are prohibited, don't trespass. There's bound to be another good road within five miles.

NON-MOTORCYCLING NIGHT LIFE is relatively uncharted by guide books on the Big Sur area — particularly when it comes to lodging info and entertainment. There is activity and lodging, however, all along the road. Problem is to get in once you find a place. I recommend making reservations in advance. As for activity, the most seems to center around Big Sur proper. It's best to play it by ear as the proprietors are idyllic types and seemingly unconcerned with schedule keeping.

Here are a few samples as you head north on Highway 1 from Nacimiento Road:

Lucia Lodge is simple looking. Your room hangs on a cliff five hundred feet above the sea. If that doesn't make you nervous, the singles are $6 and doubles $8 to $10. "Gorgeous view, isn't it, darling?" "Oh Daniel, come away from the window!"

Then: Big Sur Hot Springs. It's a big operation, catering to health faddists with the smelly water, and the intellectuals with seminars given by buggy Ph.D. types. They throw in a folksing every now and then.

The hostesses run around in slinky muumuus and they don't wear anything underneath. So help me, I looked. The sulphur bath is nude and coed if you go for that sort of thing and you don't have to stay the night to partake. Singles are $10, doubles $12.

Big Sur Inn, a few miles north of the hot springs, is more picturesque for my money and is situated in a tall stand of pines. Singles run $3.50 to $6, doubles $5 to $10. A reservation is wise. Call Big Sur 2591.

The Redwood Inn is right near the town of Big Sur. Its best asset is the bar. The exterior looks a little scruffy for $6 single and $8 double. But a hip-looking crowd seems to congregate there. On Saturdays, they feature jam session jazz along with an all-you-can eat dinner for $1.50 total.

Further north, prices go higher and the places seem less interesting. Forget Carmel for anything but the 17-mile scenic drive bit. It's a chi-chi little town full of high prices and quaint shops. The traffic is terrible, too.

Monterey doesn't turn me on at all. Motel row, gas stations, and dinner in a diner, etc. If you still need a place to stay, ask directions to Asilomar Beach State Park, located in the town of Pacific Grove a few miles away. It offers lodging in the form of cabins and rooms in cabins, the most rustic going for $6.50 double.

They like it quiet there and expect the same out of you. In return, they offer the park, the trees and a beautiful curve of beach. It's a fair trade. •