Ktm 250mxc

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KTM 250MXC

CYCLE WORLD TEST

Six Speeds and Torque Make Big Hills Little Hills.

When the last 250 KTM Enduro was tested, it arrived as one of seven enduro machines in a comparison test. Before the test began the KTM looked as though it would be the winner. Based on

the KTM motocrosser, but with a big gas tank and lighting kit added on, the KTM enduro had the most suspension travel, a beautiful chrome-moly frame and hardware that could be sold as works of art.

After six days of testing against the competition the orange and white bike didn’t stack up as well. All those beautiful components didn’t work together as well as they should have. The piston port engine didn’t have power at low revs, the clutch pulled hard, the brakes were substandard and the long travel suspension was stiff. Some of the notes from that test concluded: “Seat is narrow and hard. Kick lever catches on shock hose. Kick stand is 3 in. too short.” Good riders liked it better than novices and all found it narrow, easy to maneuver with body English, and a solid feeling bike. “Could be a great bike with proper setup,” concluded the notes.

Three short model years later, almost everything on the KTM 250 is changed except for the six-speed transmission and the engine’s bore and stroke.

A new chrome-moly steel frame with single rear shock was introduced last year. It’s been modified slightly this year. A large single downtube splits into a pair of slightly smaller tubes just above the exhaust pipe. These hefty tubes wrap under the engine cases and turn upward, ending at the rear of the huge backbone. Last year the frame had a pair of center tubes for bracing, one of which has been left off this year for easier carburetor access. A lightweight rear subframe bolts to this main structure, holding the seat, rear fender, airbox and, naturally, the rider.

By removing the rear subframe, it’s easy to reach the Fox Twin-Clicker aluminum-bodied shock. That's necessary to change spring preload. A screw-type collar at the top of the shock can adjust the spring’s compressed length from 9 in. to 10 in. with the suspension unloaded. The remote reservoir has been moved to a rear frame downtube on the righthand side, shortening the hydraulic hose between the shock and the reservoir. Both the eight-position compression damping and 36-position rebound damping controls are on the reservoir, but because the reservoir is partially hidden by the sidecover, the compression damping adjustment can’t be reached without removing the sidecover. Turning the reservoir around, with the compression damping knob now on the bottom of the reservoir, eliminated that problem.

The bike worked best for our riders and conditions with the spring preload set at 9.75 in., the rebound knob in position 12 and the compression damping in the second position.

A pair of links connects the bottom of the Fox shock with the huge aluminum swing arm. Grease fittings are provided on the linkage pivots, and the swing arm pivots on needle bearings. Revised lever arms on the suspension make the progression curve more gradual this year. Suspension travel is 12.2 in. On the top of the swing arm near the pivot, and on the bottom, back towards the rear wheel, are two of the nicest looking chain guides ever built. Both are polished aluminum, drilled for lightness, with a long-lasting plastic chain rub block sandwiched inside. The two guides surround the chain, making it impossible for the gold sideplate Regina chain to strike the frame or swing arm.

Front suspension is handled by Marzocchi forks with 11.8 in. of travel. New damper rods are used in these magnesium-slider 40mm forks. No external damping adjustments are provided. Fork adjustments are limited to changes in oil viscosity and level, plus air pressure changes.

Front brakes vary greatly between different models of ’83 KTMs. Some have discs, some have double-leading shoes, the 250MXC has a single-leading shoe. The hub and backing plate are nicely finished aluminum parts made in France. The hub’s spoke flanges are machined to a bright, shiny finish. The backing plate features a centering device for the brake cam. To adjust, loosen the 10mm nut, pull the brake lever, pump the forks and while still holding the brake on, have a helper retighten the nut. It’s a nice touch that more manufacturers should incorporate. The front wheel, like the rear, has large, strong spokes and deep-center Nordisk rims. The deep-center aluminum rims are very durable in rocks and make tire changing easier.

The rear hub is the same large item KTM has used for some years. The rear brake is a generous size and the brake’s action is strong and progressive. The steel rear brake pedal uses a rod this year after having an exposed cable the past couple of years. No one was quite sure why. We like exposed cables better— they don’t get bent.

Safety seats, or whatever you choose to call upholstery that extends over the tank, are the newest fad. Actually, if you’ve ever bashed your crotch against the tank, you probably consider them necessary. The 250MXC doesn’t have one. KTM’s motocross models come with them, the desert and enduro models don’t. There is logic to it though. The MXC desert/enduro model has a 3.4 gal. gas tank, the MX models have a 2.4 gal. tank. The extended seat works well on the MX but has a radical front end climb when used with the larger tank. It’ll fit if you think it’s necessary, but it’ll cost extra. All ’83 KTM seats have blue covers, adding a little flash. The ’83 seats are still narrow and hard, but not as hard as past models. The firm foam breaks in fairly quickly.

All plastic parts are nicely made and fit well. The small side plates and lack of extra frame tubes give the ’83 bike a nice uncluttered, simple appearance. Everything is easy to service and check. The rear fender incorporates the side numberplate. It’s easy to read and the rider’s leg never blocks it. The front fender is wide and long and works well.

All of the smaller components that make an off-road bike a pleasure to ride are good quality. The levers and throttle are Magura. The throttle is another new model. It features a double throttle cam. By disassembling the throttle and turning the cam pulley 180°, a quick MX or slower enduro ratio can be selected. The edge of the cam is clearly marked. We liked the quick MX mode. This model doesn't use the gear drive of previous Magura designs and it works more smoothly and easily as a result. The cable is turned around a roller as it leaves the unit, much like a Gunnar Gasser. If it’s necessary to change a throttle cable on the trail, no tools will be required at the throttle end. The top of the unit is easily removed by pulling up on the side of the top plate. A rubber cable snout slides over part of it and keeps limbs and things from popping it off. The dog-leg levers have slide-on, instead of snap-on, covers. Cable adjustment is much easier and quicker with the new covers and it’s no longer necessary to remove your gloves before attempting adjustment. All control cables are smooth working and well routed.

The shift shaft is quite a distance above the kick start shaft and kind of winds its way between the kick lever and side case. There’s little room for error when positioning the kick pedal on its shaft; too far forward and the shift lever will hit the kick pedal and the transmission won't go into low gear. We had to move the kick pedal back a couple of splines to get enough clearance. Then the kick pedal clamp nudged the side case. A few minutes of grinding on the clamp gave the needed clearance.

The boot end of the kick lever is short but the cast-in ribs grip a boot sole well. The KTM250MXC is pleasantly easy to start. In fact we can’t remember an easier starting bike. Hot or cold, the engine usually comes to life with a single prod. Almost any half-hearted slap at the lever will do. Leverage is excellent; the lever is very easy to push down, the starter’s foot doesn’t hit anything as the lever goes through its arc, and the internal ratios spin the crank several times. Primary kick starting offers convenience. If the engine is stalled with bike and rider in a precarious position, it’s a simple matter to pull the clutch and poke the kick lever with your left foot. The clutch doesn’t drag when primary kicking as long as the engine oil is warm first. When starting a cold engine it’s best to use neutral.

Neutral is easier to find when the engine isn’t running, although there isn’t much of a detent and there’s no extra spacing between first and second. When the engine is running it’s almost impossible to click the folding-tip shift lever from first or second into neutral. It’s a lot less frustrating to kill the engine, shift to neutral and restart the engine. Shifting through the gears is smooth and positive as long as the rider remembers to move his foot just a little farther than he would on a Japanese bike. The six-speed transmission has a ratio for any situation; low gear is a stump-puller, sixth will probably go as fast as you’ll want to go. KTM has optional front and rear sprockets available if one wants to fine tune the final gearing. If the bike is going to be used in mountainous terrain a lot we would suggest experimenting with it. There is too much jump between first and second when climbing steep hills. First will crawl along fine but the speed is low and the bike will try to loop if traction is good. Second is slightly too tall for the same hill and the engine will bog or die. Dropping one tooth on the front sprocket or splitting the difference by using a two-tooth larger rear sprocket, will get the bike up such hills in second. Low is really low with the gearing changed but it is handy for crawling up muddy creek banks or working your way around stalled competitors on the side of hills.

Don’t worry about slipping the clutch when the going gets really bad. Clutch pull is moderately light and the huge clutch, with seven fiber plates, can take all the rider can dish out. It engages smoothly and with just the right amount of strength to start the bike moving, but not so suddenly that the rider kills the engine. It’s important to keep the clutch lever adjusted so there’s not much freeplay, otherwise the clutch won’t completely disengage when stopped in gear.

All enduro based engines vibrate a little more than their MX counterparts. Enduro and desert bikes normally have outside flywheel ignitions so they can run lights. Motocross bikes usually have small internal flywheel ignitions that don't have lighting coils. Less weight on the extreme end of the crank means the engine runs smoother. The KTM has an external flywheel Motoplat CDI ignition that produces the needed spark for the spark plug and puts out 35 watts to run a

KTM

250MXC

$2703

headlight. A really picky rider might notice the engine isn’t as smooth as an MX engine, but most of our testers commented about the engine’s smoothness. Depends on what you’re used to riding.

Enduro lighting and speedo don’t come with the MXC250 but all of the parts are available separately or as a kit so the rider who is going to use the KTM in desert areas doesn’t have to pay for something he doesn’t need.

The KTM 250MXC is tuned for midrange power. The engine pulls from idle but there’s a definite surge as it gets on the pipe. This happens low in the revs so there’s no problem keeping it on the pipe. Trying to buzz the engine MX style is wrong. It’ll wind but it doesn’t make much power at high revs. The usable power band is mostly in the middle, from one-quarter to three-quarter of the rev scale. Keep it there and the bike will respond by moving smartly down the trail. The bike is deceptively fast. The smooth, wide power band gives the impression of being slow. Not so. We drag raced the bike against several ’83 motocross bikes. It stayed within a bike length of them, as long as the rider short-shifted. Overwinding let the motocrossers pull two to three bike lengths ahead.

The steep (27°) steering rake makes the KTM quick and agile on trails. Still it never shakes its head or seems too quick. It has great stability and its solid chassis and suspension are immediately felt by the rider. These parts are the same as used on the 495MX so there’s good reason they feel strong. They are.

The strong chassis and controllable power output means the rider can crank on the throttle without fear of the bike jumping off the trail. It moves quickly and with great control. It’s also easy to lift the front wheel over fallen trees and rocks on the trail. Just turn the throttle a little more and lean back. Controlled wheelies are easy. Yet the bike never lifts the front wheel unless the rider wants it. It doesn’t skate around on slippery, offcamber ground either. Good weight distribution and Metzeler tires means the rider probably won’t spend much time healing.

We do have a major complaint. The front brake doesn’t work for beans. As pretty as its parts are, it doesn’t stop well. Lever pressure is extreme and it’s impossible to slide the front tire with the brake. Too bad it doesn’t have the dual-leading shoe of the 250MX. It got better as the miles rolled by but it still has to be classified as a poor example of a modern brake.

There’s not much else to complain about. The KTM250MXC is fun to ride, competitive, works well in the desert and mountains, is finished nicely and all its parts work in harmony with each other. At slightly more than $2700 it can’t be considered a bargain; no dirt bike is a bargain. The price of fun is seldom reasonable. The KTM is what it claims to be: an excellent enduro/desert,

motorcycle.