Intelligent Motorcycling, III

Intelligent Motorcycling, III

How to Maintain Your Motorcycle for Maximum Safety and Efficiency

BILL KAYSING

THE ROUTINE MAINTENANCE of a typical motorcycle has been well documented in service manuals. Our subject matter here involves the fine detail work that must be done to keep your cycle in top shape for both safety and efficiency. For example, did you know that a few pounds per square inch less air pressure in your tires can cause the tire to rotate on the rim during acceleration or braking, thus pulling out the tube stem? Were you aware that chain failure can be disastrous? Broken chains can stop a rear wheel cold, wind up inside the cases and break them, or simply stop transmitting power to the rear wheel when you are passing that long line of cars at 60 per. More exciting than any of the foregoing is the sensation of observing the front forks drop out of the tubes while lofting the bike over a jump. Can’t happen to you? Possibly not, but these examples have happened to riders at some time in the past and they can happen again. Preventive maintenance will prevent them from happening to you.

NUTS AND BOLTS

It is surprising how many accidents and near-accidents have been caused by simply having a vital part fall off at a critical time . . '. and let’s face it, most parts on a cycle are vital. Furthermore, any instant of time can be critical if a part fails. Put down your copy of CYCLE WORLD and take a look at your motorcycle right now. Use a wrench on every bolt and nut. If you don’t find at least a couple that could stand tightening then you have a most unusual machine or one that is equipped with aircraft-type, vibration-proof nuts and bolts.

Making clockwise music with a box wrench is so basic to safe motorcycling that having something go bounding off your bike into the bushes should indicate that you either are accident prone or just plain neglect your own safety. Don’t wait for parts to rattle a danger signal . . . keep them snug with a wrench, lock washers, cotter pins, and other securing devices. Take a pointer from airplane pilots . . . they inspect their planes before takeoff. Do the same and you will have that fine, confident feeling as you bank back and forth down a mountain road or fly low through the countryside.

TIRES AND TUBES

With anyone who has ever had a flat at speed on a cycle, preventive maintenance of tires and tubes rate high priority. A rider can ride a raggedy old machine with chipped paint and a smoking exhaust, but as long as the wheels are well shod, he will avoid the first and foremost hazard of motorcycling.

This then should be our text for a short sermon on tires and tubes. Assure yourself that they are the best obtainable, properly mounted and properly inflated and balanced, and you will probably never have to hit the asphalt unintentionally.

Many riders like to get the last few miles out of a set of cycle tires. They will look at the front tire with its thick tread on top and say that there is lots of mileage left in the old Dunlop. However, tread pattern on top of a front tire is meaningless » . . this part is not driven and seldom used hard for braking. The sides take all the punishment in turns since they push

against the road to support the cycle as it curves around a bend. In time, a front tire will come to resemble a triangle with the heaviest wear occurring on the left side since this is the side that most riders bank to the steepest angle. When the sides of a front tire do not show definite tread, it is time to change without delay. It is safer to change sooner since the more flexibility there is in the tread, the better it will grip on greasy or wet surfaces.

Rear tires wear little on the sides but take a beating in the center where they withstand the friction of acceleration and braking. Be safe, change rear tires when the tread pattern is no longer capable of gripping the pavement during a fast stop. Running a slick is fine for the drag strip but you need the adhesion of tread for the many varieties of surfaces encountered in an average day of highway riding.

Tubes are as important as tires. They should always be of the best quality, free of rim cuts or pinches, preferably free of patches and properly installed. If you are a novice at mounting cycle tires, let a professional do it and take lessons. It is false economy to try and mount your own tires if you do not hâve the proper tools and know-how. The bead on a cycle tire is a lot more difficult to work with than an auto tire.

Pinching the tube is the commonest hazard but there are others. Mounting a tire with gravel or rocks between the tube and tire is asking for an eventual blowout. Failure to seat the tire bead in the rim means an out-of-balance wheel and an unstable bike at high speed, not to mention excessive wear. Ending up with the tube stem at an angle is an invitation to failure — and there are many other hazards in tire mounting. Again, let the pros do it until you have learned the trade. It is one which requires Job’s patience and the endurance of a 40-lap hare scrambles rider.

To prevent tire rotation on the rim, try these methods. Drill the rim and install a tire bead locking device available at all cycle stores. You may also chisel parallel cuts in the inner surface of the rim where it contacts the bead of the tire. These chisel cuts should face in both directions to aid in preventing tire rotation during both acceleration and braking.

For real life assurance, buy the best tires and tubes, install them properly and keep them under close surveillance. Inspect them often, preferably before each ride, and remove any nails, glass or other foreign material. Check them for cuts, bruises or damage that could affect their air-carrying capability. Keep them inflated to the proper pressures bearing in mind the temperature, road surface and the load. This attention will pay big dividends.

WHEELS AND BEARINGS

These items seldom give trouble but require periodic maintenance. Occasionally

rotate both wheels while the bike is on its s^and and let a screwdriver trail lightly on the spokes. You should hear a fine musical note as each spoke is struck. Any that sound dead are loose and should be tightened by a professional. Indiscriminate tightening of spokes will throw the wheel out of true and could cause the end of the spoke to puncture the tube. Needless to say, a broken spoke must be replaced immediately since it throws an unmerciful load on the adjacent spokes.

Wheel bearings should be cleaned and greased according to the manufacturer’s specifications. They seldom need attention and almost never wear out. The hard treatment the rest of the motorcycle receives assures that other components will wear out long before the bearings.

FRAME, FORKS & SWING ARMS

The frame of a modern motorcycle is the result of many years of design effort. Early frames were subject to cracking at welded joints and other points of stress concentration. As manufacturing methods improved, these difficulties all but disappeared. If you use your cycle primarily for riding on smooth pavement, you will probably never have frame failure. However, many riders are enjoying the thrills of racing, cowtrailing and other off-the-road activities which put added stress and strain on the entire motorcycle, particularly the frame, forks and swinging arm structures plus engine and other mountings.

Make it your regular practice to examine these parts and note any small cracks or fissures, cracked paint, or looseness of bracing or fillets. Unfortunately, you cannot see into places where incipient metal failure may be taking place without an X-ray. However, you can examine the surface, particularly after you have ridden the machine hard over rough terrain. If you note any of the danger signs, don’t wait — it won’t cure itself. Take it to a cycle shop that specializes in the repair of major components and tell them that you want it back in first class condition.

ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION

Engine and/or transmission failure on a motorcycle is usually not too serious a problem; it is usually only an annoyance. Nevertheless, there are occasions when failure could be a hazard to machine and rider.

No one should risk engine failure on a freeway. This means walking for help imishing is suicide) and a return with a pickup to load and take the offending cycle back to the shop. Freeways are not noted for being safe for this kind of activity. Breakdowns in areas of extreme heat or cold can also create a hazard .

Aside from these problems, engine seizure can produce more spectacular results. This can occur when newly overhauled engines are driven too hard and too long. The piston simply expands to fill the cylmder and promptly stops. This may result in locking of the rear wheel and consequent heavy braking effects. You can avoid engine seizure of this type by running a new engine for short periods of time with generous cooling-off spells. Avoid hills and lugging the engine as this increases cylinder pressure and a rise in temperature which can result in seizing. Just in case, keep two fingers on the clutch lever while breaking in a new engine.

Transmissions usually require only the routine maintenance of oil level and changing. However, it is an advantage to know the condition of the “box” inside so that periodic dismantling and checking is in order. Worn bearings and cogs should be replaced. Again, failure of the transmission while riding down a steep hill, when using it to “brake,” or at high speed could cause an accident.

Sprockets and chains are perhaps more troublesome and need more loving care than all the engine and transmission parts put together. The engine-to-gearbox chain (primary) is often neglected since it cannot be seen without removing an inspection plate or the entire case cover. Check this vital component at least once a month and if it is loose (more than an inch play), adjust or replace it. It will be cheaper to do in the long run for if it breaks it usually takes an expensive case with it.

The secondary chain from the countershaft sprocket to the rear wheel is exposed on most cycles although there is a trend to enclose it. In either case, the chain should be maintained in good condition and inspected regularly for looseness and excessive wear. Correct both before something happens that will cause a loss in time and money far exceeding the cost of a new chain. Like most costs of maintaining a motorcycle, a new chain will always be less expensive than replacing individual links, in the long run.

CONTROLS

While it is difficult to assign an exact schedule for cable inspection, it should be done often enough so that broken strands are not discovered. A single broken strand in a throttle cable can cause the throttle to stick wide open. There are few experiences that match this one for sheer terror. It only has to happen once to a rider to make him a believer in regular cable replacement. Using up the last few days in the life of a worn-thin control cable is a false economy of the worst kind. Remember, you are always counting on engine compression to slow you and your speed into any turn is predicated on this fact. Without engine compression, and what is worse, with an added burst of speed from a stuck-open throttle, it is likely that you will not complete a turn. It might complete you!

Do as the racers do — they work over their controls until they function like a fine watch. All parts are lapped and polished until they shine. Then they are carefully reassembled and sealed with plastic, rubber or other protective materials to keep out dirt and dust. The result is a pleasure to turn on . The same care should be given to clutch assemblies since failure here can be a serious inconvenience, and could propel you into that busy intersection.

As important as clutches and throttles are the two brakes on your cycle. Linings, drums and actuating linkage must be inspected regularly. The rear brake pedal should be adjusted so that it takes only a minimum amount of travel to achieve maximum braking. Conversely, the pedal should not be so tight that it causes overheating and loss of power while traveling.

The front brake is important for two reasons: it allows shorter stops and is an “extra” brake in case the rear should fail. Keep the front brake control cable in top shape and replace it before it grows a long gray beard. For road riding, adjust it so it doesn’t quite lock the wheel under maximum use.

Other controls on a cycle include switches for ignition, head, tail and stoplight, the steering damper, compression release, air control, spark adjustment, gear shift lever, footpegs and adjustable shocks — some of which are vitally important. Failure during operation of the air or spark control will not usually prove hazardous but what about the innocent looking headlight switch? Riders have crashed because of light failure at night on winding roads so keep the switch, bulb and wiring in top shape. Replace your headlight bulb when one filament breaks, so you’ll always have a spare beam.

HANDLEBARS, TANK, WIRING AND MISCELLANEOUS

Handlebar maintenance consists primarily of keeping them properly trimmed at the angle which gives you best control.

Cycle tanks can be a problem and the biggest single problem is leaking! It is surprising that cycle tanks hold up as well as they do but it is also true that eventually some develop leaks around the seams and tubing connections . . . especially where they attach to the carburetor. There is always the possibility that leaking gas will be ignited by a chance spark or backfire. Once a motorcycle catches fire, it is difficult to put out.

Wiring on a cycle can be left undisturbed except when the bike reaches advanced age — then replacement is in order. In the interim, make a periodic visual check for cracked insulation and loose contact points. The vibration inherent in most cycles makes it a must, especially for the battery and its cables.

In the miscellaneous category, we can place all of the peripheral equipment carried by a motorcycle such as mufflers, seats, saddle bags, license plates, fenders, etc. Little maintenance is required on these items other than assuring that they are well installed and offer no sharp edges to tempt bad fortune.

While it would take an entire book to cover all the conceivable aspects of motorcycle maintenance, the foregoing can be used as an introductory primer for the average rider. If the data is put to practice there is considerable assurance that the rider will live to take his great-grandchildren out for a spin on . . . say, a 3cc Nuclear Popper that develops a modest 335 horsepower. G