Service
Service
RAY NIERLICH
Ding your cast-aluminum wheel? Our advice: Don’t try to fix it or have it fixed. You are better off replacing the wheel as recommended by the manufacturer.
WRECKED RIM
Q: While washing my 2014 BMW R1200GS I noticed that the lip I of the front wheel was bent outward somewhat. I believe the damage was caused by a rock I hit in the roadway some weeks ago. The wheels are the stock cast-aluminum units, and I have not experienced any wobbling, loss of air, or strange handling from the front end. After looking online, I see there are many options for repairing my wheel. My question is: Is it safe to repair a cast-aluminum motorcycle wheel? While the damage to my wheel is rather minor, I have seen examples online of badly damaged wheels that have been “repaired.” How likely is it that the repaired wheel could fail later on? Are there safe techniques for repairing cast wheels?
CHADSPARCO SANTA CLARITA, CA
A: unless I’m a paranoid the ding kind in an of alloy guy, rim so is very minor, say pinky size in the bead only, I replace the rim. BMW says no straightening is permissible and recommends replacement only. Aluminum cracks easily when bent. When you go to bend it back after a largish prang, chances of at least small cracks are good.
Some bad actors purporting to straighten rims are banging dents out cold. Repeated blows work harden the alloy, ensuring a bad result. If a rim is to be straightened properly, it must be done in one motion. Never attempt to have a cheapo cast-aluminum rim or a magnesium rim straightened. I’ve seen those before-and-after pictures of badly bent rims that were repaired, and I don’t believe it is safe. Some guys like wondering about rims collapsing as they carve down their favorite canyon, but count me out.
AN IDLE SWITCHBACK
I own a 2013 Harley-Davidson FLD Switchback that has the Engine Idle Temperature Management (EITMS) activated. This past summer my clutch safety switch failed, so my bike would only start in neutral. Soon after, on hot days in 95-degree heat, the engine would bog down while riding and cause the engine warning light to come on. This happened at all speeds, including on the highway. It would come back to life by flicking the throttle and then bog again until I stopped and cooled the engine. I changed the air filter and spark plugs and the problem persisted. Brought it in for service at the dealer and the codes came back that the bogging was due to that broken safety switch. I believe that the EITMS was shutting off the rear cylinder when it got hot because of that faulty switch, but the dealer says that’s impossible. It has not done that again since. What do you think?
PHIL CENCI CYCLEWORLD.COM
A: Harley’s EITMS system cuts
spark to the rear cylinder only at idle. The primary intention is to aid the rider’s comfort by reducing engine heat. A broken clutch switch could cause your problem if it intermittantly sent signals to the ECU. If there is a bad connection in or to the throttle-position sensor, it is possible but very unlikely that the EITMS was activated at speed.
It is also possible, and more likely, that there was some other problem causing the bogging.
There have been instances of the plastic high-pressure fuel line in the tank having a hole rubbed in it, which causes a loss of fuel pressure; you should be able to hear this if it is the case, and it wouldn’t just fix itself either. And if the fuel cap is not venting properly, it could cause the symptoms you describe. I think I’d ride it until it happens again— or not.
CHAIN REACTION
Q: ZX-6R have a and 2008 keep Kawasaki hearing Ninja a clicking or popping noise coming from what sounds like the chain or front sprocket. It has a 520 chain and sprocket setup on it, and when I start from a stopped position and let out the clutch the lower end of the bike makes the noise. I don’t think it is coming from the clutch, since it continues and speeds up as the bike accelerates. However, the noise stops at around 15 mph. I’ve checked the chain for kinks or breaks, and it’s fine. I’ve also checked the front and rear sprocket for bent or missing teeth, but they appear fine as well. I put the bike on a stand and had it running in gear but didn’t hear the noise, so I think it only happens when the bike is on the ground and moving. I have no idea what can be causing this. At highway speeds everything seems normal, but this still makes me nervous. Any suggestions?
GOT A MECHANICAL OR TECHNICAL PROBLEM with your beloved ride? Perhaps we can help. Contact us at cwservice@cycleworld.com with your questions. We cannot guarantee a reply to every inquiry.
ANDREW RODRIGUEZ UTICA, NY
A Check your chain again. It is overtightened, or you missed a ■ kink or missing roller.
When you check the chain on a stand, the swingarm is hanging down and the chain is loose. When the bike is being ridden, the swingarm is in the middle of its arc and at its longest in the fore-aft direction, thus the chain is at its tightest.
With the bike on the ground, sit as far back as possible to get the rear suspension down to where the chain is at its tight-
est and check for free play. If you have a friend to sit on the bike, it makes things much easier. I’m betting you don’t have any free play. The chain should move freely up and down, in the middle of the run, about an inch. Roll the bike and recheck the chain in a couple of places. Chains sometimes stretch unevenly. You wouldn’t think so, but it happens. Doublecheck for kinks and even missing rollers.
WARM YOUR SOUL
I have a Suzuki DL650.1 have ® been back riding for three years * after a 30-year absence. I pretty much only ride in the spring and summer and log about 4,000 miles a year on paved roads. I went on one off-road ride (fire roads) and realized that it was a lot of fun at 27 and a lot of work at 72. Anyway,
I was wondering when I should change the oil? When I park it for the winter (I do fire it up at least once a month and get it up to temp) or in the spring when I start riding again? I use Mobil 1.
KEVIN KEEBLE FORESTHILL, CA
AI engine prefer while to have it sits clean for oil any in the ■ length of time. That way any acids and moisture in the old oil won’t be corroding the innards while you are off enjoying eggnog in the warm environs of your winter lair.
Your DL650 doesn’t really have to be started every month when stored over one winter. If you are firing her every so often to charge the battery, good on you. But get yourself a battery tender and join the rest of us in the 21st century. Not only will your battery be fully charged when you go for the first ride of year, but it will last about twice as long as before. You’ll wonder how you lived without one.
Now I get it if you just have a need to hear it run once in a while (those winters can be long). Starting your bike every so often is good practice as long as you get the oil up to operating temperature for a few minutes before shutting down. Add a fuel stabilizer to the tank to mitigate ethanol corrosion and varnishing problems.
