Service
Service
DUCATI ROD KNOCK? → GEAR WHINE → BEST USED BIKE → DEAD CHAIN → SWITCH IT TO RUN
RAY NIERLICH
Where there’s smoke there’s fire? Canadian reader Paul Frauenlob wonders if his Ducati STB needs another set of new rod bearings.
THIS DUC'S A KNOCKING
Q: I have a 2007 Ducati ST3, which I bought new and was always maintained as required. At only 35,000 kilometers, I noticed a tapping noise under light acceleration, which I knew didn’t come from the valve train. Long story short, I took it to the dealership to get them to listen to it; they had to take it apart to find the rod bearings totally done. It was then fixed there and I got it back after two months at the end of the riding season. Rode it the next season and it was okay, no noise, but after only 4,000 kilometers the rod bearings are knocking again under light acceleration, and I know it needs to come apart again. Is there a fundamental problem with the oil supply to the crank journal or crankpin to cause the rod bearings to fail so quickly? The dealership couldn’t give me an answer why the rod bearings failed.
PAUL FRAUENLOB VIRDEN, MANITOBA, CANADA
A: If the rod’s wiped again, somebody made a mistake. Are you positive it is the same knock noise as before, and you’re not just being paranoid now? Once a major event happens, it is natural to see and hear all sorts of imaginary new problems afterward. Don’t assume anything. Maybe the flywheel has come loose, the clutch is loose, or the fairing is rattling around? Catastrophic crankshaft-related failures aren’t unheard of in modernera Ducati engines, but they are rare.
The bottom ends are stout. Ducati has experienced some problems with rod bolts and also cracks in the crankshaft.
At the time of the original repair, the tech should have been able to narrow down the cause of your bearing failure. There’s no reason for the rod bearing to fail again so soon, except a mistake in tolerances, assembly, or especially cleanliness. Cleanliness is next to godliness with engines. Typically, either the sludge trap wasn’t cleaned out meticulously, or bearing swarf was lodged in a wee corner of the crankcase, only to wash out later and go through the new bearing. Ducati supplies new matching sets of rods and
crank. The dealer may have instead had the original crank ground to fit an undersize bearing. Double-checking bearing clearance, magnafluxing the crank for cracks, and cleaning was their responsibility. Unfortunately, you are now experiencing some of that oldworld Italian charm firsthand.
WHINY VULCAN
Q: I have a problem with a 2009 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Classic that I purchased as a repo from a dealer with 1,000 miles on it. The bike now has about 2,500 miles. The transmission and/or the clutch produces a loud whine that can be heard up to about 50 mph. The whine is heard over the engine noise. The whine is produced as the clutch is engaged and continues as long as the bike is ridden. The dealer tech said about a third of Kawasakis whine. The dealer supposedly changed the oil and filter when I purchased it. I again changed the oil and filter twice, using iow-40 or 20W-50 non-synthetic automotive oil, to no avail. I hope you can help me resolve this problem.
BILL HEILMANN CASTLETON,
A: Well, got repo’d. I guess Always you know best to why test it ride that bike you’re looking at before you buy. The noise is almost certainly from the straight-cut gears in the engine. Some are noisier than others. It will never cause you any problem, and there isn’t anything practical to do about it, short of a louder muffler or trading it in on another. Always use motorcycle oil, not automotive oil, and a heavier weight such as 20W-50 may cut the noise down a little.
TOSS THE CHAIN
Q: I have a 2004 Suzuki DL1000. The drive chain currently has 12K miles on it with plenty of stretch still allowed by the swingarm gauge. I religiously degrease and clean it every 800 miles and lube it every 200 miles. Just within the last 500 miles, it has developed a “tight spot” in the chain’s tension. I ensure I adjust the chain’s tension to the “tight spot,” but that leaves the rest of the chain looser than it should be. Is there any way to “work out” that tight spot? Is there any safety concern having this symptom, or is it a possible end-of-life indicator?
GOT A MECHANICAL OR TECHNICAL PROBLEM with your beloved ride? Perhaps we can help. Contact us at cwservice@cycleworld.com with your questions. We cannot guarantee a reply to every inquiry.
KIRK JESTER COLORADO SPRINGS, CO
A: Just like the ex said, “It will never work out.” Shop for that new chain now.
In your case, it doesn’t sound like it is a safety issue yet, but it will cause big trouble—and soon. Typically, the chain will try to come off and jam behind the countershaft sprocket (quite often breaking the cases) or fling out the rear of the bike at speed. Fun. Remind me not to follow you too closely on a ride.
Modern chains are O-ring sealed.
The O-rings are located between the inner and outer plates. They may be round or “X” in section, but either way their purpose is to keep the original lubricating grease inside and everything else out. Typical life on a streetbike is well over 20,000 miles. Please don’t over-tighten your chain when adjusting it, a most common mistake. It needs adjusting less often and less tight than most riders realize. Check it at the tightest spot in the run, while you have the rear suspension compressed to where your swingarm is inline with the sprocket centers. It should have a bit of free up-and-down movement, at least an inch or so.
When you lube this type of chain, you are really just keeping the exterior from rusting and lubing the sprockets. Apply any spray lube you like once it starts looking dry. In my experience, WD-40 or similar works as well as any of the various spray chain lubes on an O-ring chain. You have probably brought on your chain’s early demise with overzealous cleaning. Once the O-rings get hard or crack, the chain won’t last long. Never pressure wash or use harsh chemicals to clean these sealed chains.
I wipe my chain with a rag soaked in WD-40 or kerosene to get the worst gunk off. Don’t try for sparkling clean.
BASKET CASE
Q: Last Speed fall Triple I bought for 2,800 a 1999 clams. Triumph It would be my first attempt at a resto/mod. It ran fine, but I decided to have it looked at by a local Triumph dealer for any serious issues. The dealer mechanic found metal rings in the oil pan and eventually discovered the culprit when he removed the clutch basket. There are inner and outer springs, and the inner springs have shattered, and that was the source of the metal rings. The dealer said the rings were not replaceable and charged me a pretty penny to install a new clutch basket. Two questions:
1) Is it true the springs are not serviceable?
2) What causes the springs to shatter like that? Old age? Hard use? Defective OEM springs?
TONYALBACELI DETROIT, Ml
A: serviceable. Yes, the springs 2) The are springs not shatter most likely because of lots of hard use. (These Speed Triples do wheelie well.) The pairs of small coil springs arranged radially act as a cush drive to smooth out abrupt acceleration/ deceleration. They served and died well. (There is also a rubber cush drive in the rear hub.) It’s not practical to replace just the springs unless (1) you have a good buddy with a lathe to make you new springs, and (2) you have a retired aircraft tech next door to help rivet the basket pieces back together accurately. My local dealer shows $550 list for the basket and none are in stock in the US. So this isn’t a known problem; you’re lucky. Pick your spots when deciding to dragrace or speed shift, and the new basket will last the life of the bike.
TEMPERAMENTAL ZOOK
Q: Last fall I bought a 1983 Suzuki GS300L. I have kept the battery on a charger and started it throughout the winter. This weekend,
I tried to start it. No start! I push the starter and don’t even get a click.
The lights and horn work—just not the starter. It started just last week.
Went looking for the fuse box; can’t find one. Solenoid gone bad maybe? Where should I start?
THOMAS SASS CHICAGO, IL
A: Turn “run.” the It has kill happened switch back to us to all at least once! If it is on “run,” find the relay (solenoid) for the starter. Get your test light out and see what it is you’re missing. Your bike is 32 years old, so it might have some corrosion creating high resistance in one of the circuits. All electrical connections must be clean and tight. Check the grounds then the kill switch, starter button, and elsewhere.
PETCOCK, POINTS, OR...?
Q: I Scrambler have a 1973 with Honda a problem CL350 no one locally has been able to solve. When it gets hot, it loses power and will not throttle up beyond 2,000 rpm and sometimes will quit completely or backfire and then quit.
I have had a similar problem with a car and a boat, and the culprit was the ignition coil. I have put two new coils on this bike, and they made no difference. The carbs have been rebuilt, the timing has been adjusted, and the points have been cleaned and adjusted. The symptoms have not changed. I have run out of ideas.
RON GARVEY CYCLEWORLD.COM
A: the So far, fuel so flow good, out Ron. of the Now petcock. check
The petcock inlet as well as the screen can become blocked with silty rust or varnish. If the tank is rusty inside, seal it with POR tank sealer. Follow the directions exactly to clean and seal it. Also check the gas-cap vent hole. Pop the cap when it is exhibiting symptoms to see if they go away.
Next, check the condenser and points operation on a scope. Stop by your friendly old auto-repair guy (quick, before he retires) and see what the pattern looks like when it is hot.
If no shop in town remembers what points are, replace the existing parts with the best quality bits you can get and try it again. You’re looking for defective condensers and, in even rarer cases, defective points. Suspect them even if they look perfect or are brand new, especially if they are new.
A bad condenser will burn the points quickly, and you should be able to see obvious sparking across the points while running. Bad points may have a high internal resistance that might not be apparent until warmed up. A weak return spring may cause bounce at higher rpm. Incorrect spec insulating material that gets sticky when hot will bind on the pivot or wear quickly on the cam lobe.
The new components we get now aren’t of the same quality as back in the day.
Lastly, check for a sticking intake valve or valves. The guides and valve stems can rust together, forming a gooey paste, especially if it has ever had ethanol run through her.
CLEARANCE, CLARENCE
Q: the Since same the on frame both and bikes, engine would are the centerstand from the new Yamaha FJ-09 bolt onto the FZ-09?
I miss the centerstand I had on my FZ-01 greatly!
KEVIN DESIARDINS CYCLEWORLD.COM
A: Unfortunately says the centerstand for you, from Yamaha the new FJ-09 model will not fit on the FZ-09. It hits the exhaust.
