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SERVICE

Homy GPz

I have a question regarding new horns for my bike, an '82 Kawasaki GPz550. I’m leaning toward air horns, but am worried about the lag while the compressor gets up to speed. Can I rig a system so that the air horns are augmented by the standard horn as soon as I press the button? Would the wiring be too complicated? Marty Brown San Francisco, California

A set of conventional aftermarket elect rol mechanical horns, such as those made bv Fiam , are, essentially, as loud as any air horns that will fit on a motorcycle. I have used both types on several of my bikes and prefer the Fiams (available at some auto-parts stores) over all the others l have tested. Air horns are particularly shrill, but are heavy, bulky and not as reliable as electric horns.

The Fiams, or other similar horns, use much more current than stock horns, so you will need to mod iß' the horn wiring. Install a horn relay, which may or may not come with the set of Fiams, so that the stock horn wiring is only used to power the relay.

A separate fused wire (14 gauge, 15 amp) should then be run from the battery to the relay and then to the horns. Be sure that the horns' ground wire is also 14 gauge and solidly connected to the frame or negative battery terminal.

Loud horns work. In the 15 years that I have been using Fiams, I've had a number of experiences where they've proven their worth. If you sound like a truck, semi-conscious car drivers will treat you like one. And by the time they open their eves and see that you 're not riding on 18 wheels and carrying 20 tons, you should be safely out of harm's way.

High-sprung EX500

My 1988 Kawasaki EX500 handles great when I am riding one-up. The problem is that my wife and I have set it up as a sport-tourer, with soft luggage and a tankbag. When we load it for a weekend trip and are riding two-up, the stock fork springs offer too little support. If I back-oif the throttle, the front will dive 2 to

3 inches, which is annoying.

I am considering fitting progressive-rate fork springs, though I’ve been advised to install everything from air fittings to spring spacers to heavier oil. Will progressive-rate springs perform any better than stock? Keith Morinville Boise, Idaho

The Kawasaki EX500 does have rather soft fork springs. Their rate is on the low side and they have little preload. The low preload leaves the EX's front fork well into its available travel with just one rider on board, let alone with two riders. As you've found out, the low rate of the stock springs results in significant front-end dive when the brakes are applied.

You need to increase both the preload and rate of your fork springs. Spacers can be used to increase preload but will not affect rate. By adding air pressure and I or increasing oil level, you can adjust the amount of dive under braking. The possible permutations of these adjustments and their complexity make it very difficult to get a fork's springing action perfectly tuned.

You can, however, make your EX500 fork much better with a minimum of fiddling by taking advantage of a clever, adjustable fork-spring set made by Works Performance (8730 Shirley Ave., Nortbridge, CA, 91324; 818/701-1010.) The WP fork springs are two-piece assemblies and have two rates. The lower rate takes care of the

first part of the fork travel. A travellimiting bolt in each spring set allows you to adjust the point in the fork's travel when the second, higher, rate becomes effective. Between this adjustable feature and normal preload adjustments via spacers, you can quickly customize the springs for your particular needs. The Works Performance spring sets, priced at $69.95, are available for most current motorcycles.

Insane stoppers

My brakes are driving me crazy with their squeaking! I need a brake pad that does not squeal. Please advise me as to which brand of pad will solve my problem. My future motorcycle riding (and sanity) depends on a solution. Thomas Shalosky New' Philadelphia, Ohio

Most squeaking disc-brake pads can be cured by applying one of the special disc-brake lubricants available to the back of the pads where they contact the calipers (this requires removing the pads from the caliper), being careful not to allow the lubricant to touch the discs or the face of the pads. I have used moly compounds, heavy silicone grease and Permatex aerosol brakepad treatment. AU have worked fairly well.

If you replace your stock metallic pads with any of the premium aftermarket pads and lubricate them, too, chances are you won 7 have any more squeaking trouble. 0

JOE MINTON