Leather Care

Leather Care

Your Riding Gear Can Improve With Age

by Andrew Ewert

Despite the influx of less expensive nylon and vinyl riding wear, leather garments are still the motorcyclist’s best friend. Nothing equals leather when you’re cruising down the turnpike into a brisk wind, or protects your hide better when you take a spill. In short, no synthetic can match the combination of strength, durability, and beauty found in leather.

Good leathers were never cheap and with today’s prices, each purchase is a substantial investment, one that merits proper protection.

Caring for your leathers is easy, requiring only a little time and a few inexpensive items easily obtained in your neighborhood drugstore. Maintenance falls under four categories: conditioning, cleaning, reconditioning, and repair. (The following instructions apply only to smooth leather.)

The new leather garment goes through a breaking-in period as it conforms to the contours of your body. To protect it at this time requires a good leather conditioner. Some of the available brands include Tan Kote, Melo Wax, Fiebing’s, and Kiwi, all which sell for around $2.50 a can. Conditioners are applied in one or two light coats with a moist cloth. Be sure to read the instructions on the can. Finish by buffing with a clean, dry cloth. Conditioners not only protect the leather from scuff's and spots, but also remove some of the stiffness from the garment.

With continual wear, your leathers will get dirty. Mud, dirt and grease are the most common offenders. Lightly soiled leather is easily cleaned by dipping a soft rag in the suds of Ivory soap (avoid using a wet rag if possible) and drying with a clean cloth. Heavily soiled leathers can be cleaned with saddle soap. First remove all loose dirt with a moist rag. With a damp sponge or cloth, rub lightly over the soap, working it into a lather. Apply on the soiled area in one or two light coats and wipe clean with a damp cloth. When the garment is clean, apply one additional coat and allow it to dry, then buff gently. For an additional high gloss lustre, coat lightly with a silicone boot polish and buff into a shine.

Stubborn grease spots can be a problem. Here’s a simple trick. Purchase a small can of Fuller’s Earth, a fine chalk-like powder sold in drugstores to protect babies -from diaper rash. Mix a tablespoon of the powder with a few drops of liquid spot remover and stir into a paste. Apply this to the spot with a clean, dry rag and let sit for about two hours before removing.

Heavily worn or scuffed leather requires reconditioning. Neats-foot and mink oils are good for this. Like saddle soaps and conditioners, these should be applied sparingly. One or tw'o light coats usually do the trick. Always make sure the garment is clean, as these oils will trap dirt in the leather. Rub the oil into the leather with your fingers, in a circular or massaging motion, especially around seams and stitching. Wipe off any excess and buff lightly. These oils condition, and also give the leather added pliability and water resistance. Again, apply with care. Too much oil may actually rot the leather.

If you get caught out in the rain and your leathers become soaked, prompt, special care is necessary. Sodden leather is overly pliable, and can be molded into a host of undesirable shapes. Collars curl, wind flaps turn up. and wrinkles form, unless the proper care is taken. First, remove all loose dirt with a damp cloth and apply one or two light coats of saddle soap to recondition the leather. Next, place the garment on top of a large, clean, dry towel. A beach towel works fine for this. Smooth out all undesirable wrinkles and folds with your fingers. Avoid hanging wet leathers, as the additional weight and pliability can stretch the garment out of shape. Pants are also treated in this fashion. Shoe trees should be placed inside wet boots, and the shape of gloves can be maintained by lightly stuffing them with paper towels to the shape and size of your hands. Drying your leathers is an extremely critical operation. Never expose leather, wet or dry, to direct heat. This can cause wrinkling and worse, can dry out the leather, causing cracks. Allow several days for drying, at room temperature. After the drying process is complete, apply one or two light coats of mink or neats-foot oil.

Unfortunately, despite its great tensile strength, leather can tear. In most cases it is best to have a professional do the repair work, but simple repairs can be made. First, select a leather patch. If the tear is not on a point of stress, slit the lining (if there is one) with a razor blade and glue the patch to the underside of the tear with Weld bond, a leather glue. Re-sew the lining and you’re all set. If the tear is large, or if it is on seams, zippers, or snaps, spend the extra money and have the work done by an expert. These areas receive continuous stress and will tear out unless properly repaired.

Quality leathers improve with age, providing they’ve received the proper care. Aged leather develops a satiny, smooth sheen, and becomes soft and supple. If you take care of your leather riding wear, it will take care of you, providing the best in comfort, protection and style. E9