Feedback
FEEDBACK
YAMAHA ATI-MX
I don’t know if my letter will be considered valid, as my father sells Yamahas, but every time I read the May ’72 issue, in Feedback, about the 125 Yamaha MX, I feel hurt, as I have a 1970 Yamaha AT1-MX. I raced the hell out of it most every weekend for the Wisconsin season in 1970 and 1971, and am the number one 125cc class scrambles rider in my district for 1972. In the two seasons that I competed on it, I motocrossed, scrambled, short tracked,
and hillclimbed it with little of the problems encountered by Denis Schmiddin and Steve Paschke.
Stock handling suspension for smooth tracks is OK, but too bouncy for rough tracks. At the start of the 1971 season I put on Koni rear shocks with 35-lb. springs with a 2-in. preload, and a Webco front fork kit. I also have two front wheels; a 2.50-21 and a 3.25-18, for different tracks. I feel the handling is very good, and encountered no bending of the swinging arm, although, corny as it may sound, if you transport your motorcycle on a trailer, and chain it down by the rear swinging arm quite solidly, the swinging arm may bend, which will also result in the chain jumping the sprocket and bad handling. Also, automatic transmission oil works rather well in the front forks.
Chain care on a bike with an engine as small as 125cc, or actually for any size engine, is important, if you’re interested in maximum power and reliability. I changed chain and sprocket near the end of the 1971 season and it ran faster, noted by both me and my competitors, who did not share my glee, alas.
As far as shifting problems, 1 have occasionally missed fifth gear, but it only occurred on rough ground, and was probably due to my almost total disdain for the clutch once the race is a lap or two old, and shifting points are established.
The footpegs are slippery, when riding in the wet. Webco “Gator pegs” are much better, except after awhile they bend slightly. The countershaft sprocket is fairly inaccessible, but if you Ifeplace the phillips head screws with *allen heads it is much quicker to change.
The autolube tank is too heavy. The stock air cleaner is quite waterproof, but the element is not that effective. A Proto Products air cleaner is lighter and better (with a Filtron cleaner), but you must seal the air cleaner back and stock air cleaner rubber/Proto adapter joint well. Another place which must be watched carefully is the magneto cover. It has a rubber seal by the countershaft sprocket, and large amounts of dirt may force it out, the dirt getting into the points.
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I weigh 160 lb., and while the powerband is not like an electric rheostat, it pulled me around quite well. A tire on the rear bigger than 3.50-18 will not work for best all-around performance. Straight cut primary gears are expensive, and made no noticeable power difference. If you leave the lever brackets loose enough on the handlebar, so you can turn them with a slight, but reasonable amount of force, and Loctite the bolt to keep it from loosening, you’ll break less levers. I’ve bent a few, but not so I couldn’t use them, and I’ve never broken any.
When you fall, the most breakable item is the upper throttle housing. Keep a spare one on hand or use a different throttle assembly. Keep a close eye on the tightness of the fork head bearings, and related bolts, also.
Engine wear on my bike amounted to three different piston rings for two seasons, and for 1972, a 0.010 overbore.
Now Uncle Sam has his hands on me for two years, and I have raced it twice for the 1972 season: an unknown placing in a motocross, and a 1st in the 125cc class final at a scrambles.
Larry M. Eckes APO, New York
A nice, thorough, cool-headed report, Larry !—Ed.
HONDA XL250
I am writing in behalf of a happy Honda XL 250 owner...me! I have not had it too long nor too many miles, but in the last seven months and 2500 miles (about half dirt and half road), it has proven to be a very satisfying machine.
While not the best of either “worlds,” it has proven to be economical and quite well-mannered on the road, and a very easy handling and dependable dirt bike. Incidentally, I ride neither lightly, but I must admit, I’m far from a pro.
The machine is not without faults. I had a piston seizure at 300 miles, completely cured with a top end job, and the rear seam on the fuel tank seeped. Both were taken care of by the warranty and a very accommodating Honda dealer.
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D.E. Kelsey Lind, Wash.
KAWASAKI 125E
I would like to present this mini road test and critique on my present bike, a Kawasaki 125E.
Following (not to the letter), an inordinately long break-in period, and prior to any serious trail riding, 1 made a few needed modifications. I laced a 21-in. wheel up front, 2.75-18-in. tire, replaced the 3.25-18 trials with a 3.50-18 knobby, dropped one tooth on the countershaft sprocket, changed to desert footpegs, and removed the instruments. I decided to live with the definitely Japanese suspension.
Once the relative height of the bike is adjusted to, the 125 is a blast to ride. Power slides are very controllable, wheelies in first and second are a snap, but a big ratio jump to third makes lofting the front tough. Tracking is straight ahead in mud, rocks or deep sand, but the suspension locks up at speed over rough ground and all you do is bounce over or into obstacles. It is unfortunate that Kawasaki opted to surround such a brilliant little engine with mediocre suspension components.
The power and torque output of this rotary 125 is amazing. The power band is exceptionally broad and flat; it starts at 2500 rpm and continues up to the 8000 rpm redline. You can wind it out and scream up a hill, or chug around at trialing speeds; the engine will not smoke, load up or overheat. Overall, I’m really pleased with the bike, and the only place Kawasaki dropped the ball was on the muffler, it’s much too loud.
Mark A. Bartosch Huntingdon, Penn.
1972 YAMAHA DT2 MX
I purchased a DT2 MX Yamaha in February, '12. Now, after about seven months of weekend riding, I feel that my purchase was quite satisfactory.
The rear shocks, handlebars and grips were unsatisfactory and required replacement; also, the chain is stretching steadily.
On the positive side: the weight is about right. Wheelbase and fork angle is good. If you feel the front end going out you can get a foot down. Although the power band is somewhat narrow it can be controlled and the burst of power is rewarding.
Service problems have been nil, only the usual maintenance is required. I do not mix any oil with my gas but I do not run constantly on the pipe. The seat is quite comfortable and the general “feel” of the cycle is satisfactory. The transmission shifting is excellent. Slowly the rear brake is easing up its extreme sensitivity.
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Thanks to the reed valve the cycle never “loads up.” I have had good luck with the number 8 NGK plug. Noise has been something of a problem I hadn’t expected. Even with the silencer, after two hours of steady riding it can get you down.
In conclusion I am quite happy with the bike and have yet to hear much in the way of negative comments from other riders.
D. Kimmey N. Miami, Fla.
BENELLI DEALER DISAGREES
I have just read your article on road testing the Benelli 650. I feel in many instances you have done Benelli an injustice either due to poor information or a mechanic who did not prepare the bike properly before delivery.
First of all, saying it will cost more than $2000 is not true. Here in Michigan it can be purchased for $1923.03 including freight, prep charges, sales tax, license and title cost.
I disagree with the statement about first and second gear. I have not found where I had to get the rpm way up in order to downshift without locking up the rear wheel. As for the controls, I feel you did not really give them a chance to prove themselves. I will admit that the handlebars could be wider for some riders, but I found them just right for myself. About the horn button location, if a study were to be made on how many riders ever use a horn you would find only about 5 percent ever use them and also that on other makes of bikes half the time they don’t work. The idiot lights, as you call them, are not hard to identify once you become familiar with the machine. Apparently you did not read the manual to familiarize yourself with them.
I believe if the carbs had been adjusted properly you would have found there is no one-shot miss, as you call it, below 2500 rpm. I have not experienced this flat spot at all nor did any of the people who have ridden it. Complaining about the turn signals is of a minor nature. Undoubtedly it was some minor thing that could have been easily corrected and could happen on any bike. If time had been taken to properly adjust the clutch cable you would have found that it would not pop out of the handle when snap shifted.
As for speed, you’re way off base when you state top speed is only 97
mph. I have ridden it well over 110 mph and still had lots more to go. I think you better check the speed out again after a good mechanic has checked the bike out.
As for saying it will never be distributed in great numbers in the U.S., I suggest you check with Cosmpolitan Motors Inc., Hatboro, PA 19040, the importers, and see how many dealers there are in the U.S. Within a 175-mile radius of my home there are six dealers and more taking on the most copied motorcycle line in the world.
You say it is high priced, yet look at Harley-Davidson. They are much higher in price and yet in my and lots of other riders minds they can’t compare with the Benelli 650 for ride, performance, and trouble-free durability.
By the way, I am a Benelli dealer and if I did not feel the Benelli line was of the best quality I would not have taken it on.
Duncan C. Griffin Munising, Mich.
And, on the other hand, we feel we were quite fair with the Benelli 650. The approximate estimate of price with all taxes and other charges came from the distributor. The handlebars are a matter of subjective judgment, so we respect your opinion as well as our own.
That people may use a horn only 5 percent of the time is no justification for confusing positioning or size. Try that same reasoning on the design execution of a parachute rip cord. You don’t pull it often, but when you do, you want it right at hand, not so?
Our description of other minor failures apply specifically to the machine we tested, and were honestly reported, with no broad implication that the faults would be found on all Benelli 650s.
And as for your 110-mph ride, you’re free to make that claim. Our 97-mph figure was obtained with a calibrated radar unit. We don’t rely upon the bike’s speedometer, which may give erroneous readings at high speeds.
We have no argument with you about the Benelli’s handling, excellent performance and potential for long term reliability. It’s a fine machine. —Ed.
SQUAT FRIEND
Something in the way of mild rejoinder to the “Sprint—ugh!” letter in the October issue: Since 1966, the following bikes have made going first to bartending, then undergraduate school, then a splendidly rich bank, and now law school worth doing—a Cl 10 Honda (it promised to run forever), a Super Hawk (I gave it to a girl I loved with 26,000 trouble-free miles on it), an Avenger (beautiful crackles, and the first really good 350), a 650 Kawasaki SS (strong, fine, proud, but owning an ignition that belonged on a lawnmower), an R5-B (sold to kick up another year’s tuition), and now, now, an old, ugly, squat ’66 250 Sprint.
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But God does it run! It is tenacious, clumsy, and true as a dog that once graced my childhood home, half wirehair and half a hundred other indiscreet forebears. And for the same virtues, it is as loved.
The Sprint is a good machine. It is not especially fast, but it is a good machine for its heart. It is not...well, that is about all it is particularly not. Things it is are: reliable, oil-tight, stopable, and steerable. The other bikes owned some or all of the same virtues; yet, there is another thing the Sprint is that no other bike I have owned has been: it is a whole, unified and coherent—it has a personality.
We are back to my old dog, the terrier (that’s what I told my friends, and hoped not to have to explain his genesis), and it’s probably time that I and my newest squat friend rode to Gresham to look at another probate. Thanks for the time and the consideration.
Thomas F. Burke Portland, Ore.
KAWASAKI 250 ENDURO
I would like to share my impressions of the 250 F8 Kawasaki. This is a ’71 model with approximately 2000 miles, 40 percent of this mileage being dirt riding in the coastal region of Oregon.
The bike’s 55-in. wheelbase gives a stable high-speed ride, both on and off the dirt. The front forks in the standard setting, give good feel and are hard to bottom. Rear shocks tend to hop a bit on ruts but the bike corrects itself and it does not cause any serious problems. Power band is broad and pulls like a four-stroker. The bike’s gears are the same as those found on its bigger brother, the 350cc. While being adequate for most riding, enthusiastic hillclimbing and hard acceleration will demand a 13-50 sprocket change over the stock 14-44. Clutch pull is moderate and cushioned by nylon, clutch does drag until the engine has time to warm, shifting is effortless, also neutral does not exist unless the engine is turned off.
Instruments are accurate and easy to read. The tachometer will occasionally bounce on mine, but causes no problems. Have had no problems with frame or component parts coming undone, the bike stays together.
The weight of the bike has caused some problems. While the front end stays down for hillclimbing, it will not lift for logs or other obstructions easily until lightened by equipment removal.
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When first purchased, the 250 would cut out when accelerating above 5000 rpm. This problem has continued until recently, despite three dealer tune-ups. Now I believe trouble might have been caused by a leaking rubber collar surrounding and sealing the carburetor into the crankcase.
Spark plugs last about 20 to 40 miles and then load up with carbon deposits, even after a dealer service.
After second tune and about as many months after purchase, I found the carburetor boot cover and lines leading into same leaked all manner of mud and water directly into carburetor cavity.
Other small problems would be an excessively noisy muffler, little ground clearance under base plate, foot pegs turn under on rider, too short turning radius and the rear shocks have just quit. Opening them revealed a sand/oil solution that was not quite doing the job. No replacement parts are available from Kawasaki.
In conclusion, my wife would make war if I purchased another bike and I can’t see going through striping and rebuilding another bike for dirt use. Guess I’ll keep it....
R.W. Copien Beaverton, Ore.
1971 TRIDENT
I read Feedback each month with enthusiasm, and really enjoy the tales about everlasting and bulletproof bikes. Some of the stories make me laugh, as they sound so unbelievable; and others make me cry because I know the feeling.
My story centers around my 1971 Triumph Trident, which now has over 12,000 miles on it in exactly one year of ownership. Half of the mileage was put on locally with some short trips, and the rest came in a one month jaunt to the Midwest. While I don’t ride hard at all it seems Diamond Chain and Dunlop K 81 tires have had their useful life at 4000 miles. Champion N3 spark plugs still look good at 2000 miles but are replaced then during the routine tune-up. The stock clutch only lasted 900 miles; points, 4000; fork seals and rocker box gaskets, 6000. The rear drive speedometer went out at 10,000 miles and ruined the rear bearings with filings.
My beautiful Trident is now torn down in my garage. It didn’t quite wait for winter to come. All the rings, pistons, valves and guides will need replacing. Special equipment . already put on was a Cibie QI headlight, Filtron air filter and special compound brake shoes and clutch.
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It seems “ride a little, fix a little (or more)” has been my story. But I would not trade my Trident for anything but a new ’73 Trident. When it is running there is not a better handling 750 on the road. What it comes down to is the fun you have riding to Yosemite National Park on the twisty mountain roads, and having to stop now and then, waiting for the other so called “Super Bikes” to catch up.
Kent Stephens Pleasant Hill, Calif.
BMW TUNING PROBLEMS
I would like to offer my experiences to W.R. Fagerberg of Tampa, Fla., whose letter was published in the April ’72 issue of CYCLE WORLD and any others who have had similar troubles, with the BMW R75/5. I purchased an R75 last fall for several hundred dollars under market value because it idled erratically, stalled in traffic, was extremely hard to start when hot, leaked oil, and the owner was sick of it. He had spent considerable money with several mechanics, including the BMW dealer, and it only got worse.
Immediately after buying the machine, I went through a complete tuneup procedure very carefully exactly by the procedures given in the workshop manual and in BMW Service Information Bulletin No. 4/70 (282) New Jersey, April 1970. I found the float level to be specially critical, but when everything was done by the book, the machine ran very nicely indeed. I have since put 2800 miles on the bike, doing nothing but adding gasoline, and it still idles smoothly at about 1000 rpm, starts quickly hot or cold, and has no tendency to stall when thoroughly warmed up. In very cold weather the idle needs to be set slightly higher.
Regarding the oil leak, which was from the push-rod tubes, I had similar results. The dealer told both me and the previous owner that it was necessary to pull the cylinder to repair the leak. This had been done, but the leak was still bad, with oil gushing over the rider’s foot and the exhaust pipe. Reference to the manual showed that this type of leak could be repaired in about five minutes using a special tool (which I made out of a piece of pipe) to seat the seal into the crankcase from the outside.
The point of this letter is that the only thing wrong with the R75 BMW is that the mechanics that work on it doi not bother to read the service notes and shop manual, or take the time to do careful work. Monroe McDonald Dallas, Texas
